Two weekends ago, I along with several other people in my program (from here on out called EAPSI people) made a trip to the DMZ. This was a very unique and surreal experience which makes it kind of hard to describe to others. I had a vague understanding of the history of the Korean War, but really next to no knowledge as to what happened after the ceasefire. This trip included a very helpful overview of both of these so I know a lot more about them now.
The way the tour works is that the morning of the tour, you head to the USO in Seoul. From there they bus you to the DMZ and take you along to various areas around there. We had a tour that went to the Camp Bonifas for a slide show history lesson (which was really good-brief but very informative) then on to the JSA (joint security area), then we stopped at a few guard posts where we could take pictures of the huge N. Korean flag and flagpole (both of which are just gigantic) and see the so called Propaganda village which seems to have lights on but no one home. Then we went to the 3rd tunnel (one of 4 tunnels the North Koreans apparently dug to infiltrate S. Korea), some viewing area that was outside the DMZ, I believe, and then to the Dorasan train station.
Visiting the DMZ reminded me of visiting Hiroshima in that it was a bit jarring to be around all these people that are joking around when you are in such a historically significant and sad spot. Of course, I have no way of knowing how others feel and people express there emotions differently so I certainly don’t mean that as a judgment statement. I just mean that I felt very tense the whole time we were in the DMZ and particularly when we were in the JSA and I didn't know how to react when others were joking around. I am very outwardly serious when confronted with situations like that whereas others might be less so. Again, I’m not saying there is a right or wrong way because clearly there isn’t, but the difference can be startling. Actually I felt tense even before we entered the DMZ. I was talking to someone sitting next to me when I was very startled to see Korean soldiers in a little roadblock thing as we drove by. I don’t ever see soldiers in battle ready positions like that so it startled me. Also, the knowledge that a hiker nearby was killed a week earlier by a landmine (and this is not uncommon) is also sobering. Landmines are just terrible weapons of war and should never be used as far as I am concerned. Even once the two countries unify, they will have to invest heavily in de-mining the area because the whole area is heavily mined.
Going to the JSA after hearing the brief overview of events was interesting. I had never heard of the Axe murder incident, but that is a story that will stay with me for a long time, I am sure. The JSA in general is the weirdest place. With it’s blue buildings, soldiers in rock ready position (some variant of a taekwondo position) and mirrored sunglasses, a N. Korean guard straight across from you watching you with binoculars, white stakes in the ground to designate the line you must not cross…so much weirdness. Plus you are not supposed to point or gesture towards the N. Korean guards at all. Just so strange.
Our group had two American soldiers with us (one of which looked like he was 18! But actually was much older), they were very nice and I talked to one of them a bit about the life up there.
We did see a ton of cranes (the DMZ has basically become this huge nature preserve) and that was cool. On a lighter note, the acronym ROK is pretty sweet for a military force. We kept hearing the soldier say “the ROK soldiers” which sounds pretty cool.
The train station is really sad. S. Korea built this really nice new train station that is intended to link up with tracks to the north (as historically a train ran the length of the whole peninsula), but for now it just sits empty. You can take a train ride from a town just south to the Dorasan station, but there are only like 2 trains a day, so other than tourists the station sees no activity at all. Seeing how busy other train stations are, it seems very sad that this one is so empty. But it is also a sign of hope that things will get better.
These are just a few of my unorganized thoughts about the DMZ.
2 comments:
I was in the DMZ in the summer of 1989. Based on your comments, it is very sad how little has changed. While we were there a group of teenage tourists was visiting on the north side. It was so sad not to wave back when they were all waving at us, but I tried to smile as best I could so that they wouldn't think all Americans were mean.
Thanks for posting.
Yeah, I get the feeling nothing really has changed. Except the sunshine policy is definitely over. Although the average Korean is not at all concerned that a war will start, obviously the relationship is under higher tension these days.
Post a Comment